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I was welcomed back to the United States of America on 1 April 2008. The flight was comfortable, smooth and short (as least as far as a transatlantic flight can be.) I touched down in Chicago late in the evening after a slight delay in Newark. It’s good to be back to the land of big savings.

I appreciate the fresh air, friendly faces and familiar surroundings of home too. Those Europeans are far behind us advanced nations in many respects. They are actually pretty barbaric - with their narrow cobblestone streets and unrefrigerated eggs and such. We know how to handle our consumption. We also know how soon to throw things out. We waste nothing that shouldn’t be wasted.

As a special treat after returning stateside I visited Stanley’s, Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods - three stores I missed greatly while in Portugal. After spending six weeks overseas I was able to pick out many delicious foods, but here in the States, with these stores, it’s so easy to find a great tasting meal without even trying - although I do pay more for it. Oh my, there is one less option here now. I hope that it’s not contagious.

Seems that the Sunflower Market went under while I was out of town. That isn’t really shocking because between Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods there isn’t a lot of room for competition. What is sad about the closure is that the lights are still on, even though nobody is home. I bet they are still lit up today, in some odd attempt to pay tribute to the Earth on this one day that people put on a green show.

Sorry, this post sounds a bit cynical doesn’t it? It’s hard not to be, after spending six weeks in such a wonderful place and then returning to this. Portugal is a land where the weather is amazing, the people are the most friendly and open I’ve ever met, rich history is woven through everything and living isn’t something that is difficult, but enjoyed daily. These daily experiences defy American comprehension. This past weekend in Chicago three dozen people were shot. Planes fly overhead constantly advertising some unnecessary product or service. Traffic congests surface streets and highways most of the day and far into the night. This isn’t living. This is survival.

We couldn’t leave Sevilla before taking in the spectacle of an authentic Flamenco show from the area where it all started. There were many shows listed in a pamphlet we picked up and many of those were free but the one we finally decided to go to was the one we heard about from a girl in the hostel. She had gone the night before and enjoyed it. We took her hand-drawn map and hurried out into the night. We arrived late and barely squeezed into the packed bar. We found an empty stage.

Had we missed the show? Was it over already? Luckily, It wasn’t long before the performers took the stage and attempted to quiet down the audience. It took some time before people realized that silence on their behalf was mandatory for the show’s beginning. Our favorite character of the evening sat in the front row and felt it was also his duty to quiet the crowd.

Then the unaccompanied singing (cante) began. It started out softly and slowly but built up strength quickly.

Soon, the song was broadened by the singer’s use of rhythmic hand clapping (palmas) and feet stomping (zapateado). His feet seldom stopped moving and the heavily scuffed floor displayed the evidence of countless performances.

A guitarist (toque) joined in. Music filled the room.

The Flamenco dance (baile) was about to begin. The performance led us on a sonic journey and the stage was it’s focus. Our colorful character in the front row waved his hands madly above his head as he snapped his fingers to the rhythm. Boots stomped. Hands clapped. The crowd fell under the spell of the show.

Finally, the dance began. The presentation was incredible. The audience applauded thunderously between songs.

Two separate shows on the main stage were performed before moving to a smaller stage. We pushed our way out the door to the smaller room and were rewarded with front-row seats. I felt the stage move every time the singer’s boot impacted. I saw the sweat on his brow and the concentration in his eyes. It was a good evening in Sevilla.

The largest and most ornate Cathedral I’ve ever seen dominates the Sevilla skyline. It’s construction began in 1402 and continued until the 16th century. It is the largest of all Roman Catholic cathedrals and the largest Medieval Gothic building in the world. Shown below is a tiny portion of it’s roof.

A museum of paintings and art in a series of small rooms prepare you for the main Gothic portion. Inside it stands 37 meters (121 feet) tall, 83 meters wide (272 feet) and 126 meters long (413 feet). Rainbows of light faintly illuminate massive columns as our eyes adjust to the dark. Several stained-glass murals and a few rose windows ring the cathedral.

A large tomb predominates the Eastern wall. It’s the tomb of Christopher Columbus so It’s size and extravagance are warranted.

Nearby stand the High Altar and the Choir. Every seat in the choir is handcrafted with creatures of intense detail.

Tucked away in a little-noticed corner sits a chest. Trash litters the ground nearby. A large doorway remains closed to traffic. Personally, I like the atmosphere created here by the afternoon sunshine and the noticeable lack of tourists.

Outside a carriage awaits to carry us off to our next destination. (We didn’t splurge on a wagon ride even though they were everywhere we went.)

The gardens of the royal palace are amazing. There are many pools, fountains and sculptures scattered about. As soon as you exit the buildings you are greeted by a two story cascade of water filling a large pool. In the center of the pool sits a statue. Ducks congregate here for food or attention.

Further out in the gardens is a large topiary maze. I followed my friends through a small section of it and thought that I would take a shortcut and beat them out. I was wrong. I was trapped in a dead-end and had to backtrack. They laughed at my attempt. I think they had done the same thing only minutes before. Luckily there was an exit nearby that desperate people had carved through the shrubbery. I followed their lead as small branches clawed at my clothing.

Many things in Europe seem to be very old and this palace is no exception. These buildings have been around for centuries and have seen many people come and go. Some plants also seem impervious to the passing of time. The smallest sprouts become large and ancient-looking trees anchored into the very foundation of the gardens. We had our photo taken on the roots of one such tree. Click for a view.

Underneath the palace, tucked away down a long hallway easily overlooked, lay the Baths of Lady María de Padilla. The air cools noticeably as you leave the sunshine behind and descend ever so slightly beneath the massive foundation of the Patio del Crucero. The perfectly still waters and crisp air are relaxing and make for a tranquil experience. It must have been refreshing to bathe down here in the middle of the sweltering summer heat.

And if all of this wasn’t enough for our senses, we finally discovered the Patio de las Doncellas. People swarmed like bees on the last day of summer. We heard languages from around the world being spoken in hushed tones. The detailed design of the courtyard was staggering. Intricate tile-work covered the lower section of the walls.

Woodwork more detailed than any I’ve ever seen decorated the doors.

And the stonework left me utterly speechless.

Those 7 Euro were well spent. I’m glad we took the time to visit this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Sevilla is a pleasant city. It encourages visitors to stretch out with all of their senses and discover a wealth of experiences. Upon arriving we noticed the omnipresence of orange trees and their blossom’s intense smell. Imagine soaking in hot springs overlooking the ocean at sunset while angels spray a fine mist of sweet essential orange fragrance around you. That just about begins to describe the olfactory experience.

Sevilla also smells of tapas bars. There are just about as many of them as there are orange trees. On every street at least one restaurant can be found. It’s a good thing too, because hungry tourists fill every available seat and some bars are standing room only. Going from one bar to another makes for a filling, fun time. During our stay we visited three of them. Delicious and affordable.

Then there are the sights. Many sights. Too many for a weekend. The map that we shredded while exploring town has 82 monuments and points of interest marked on it. We only saw a small handful of those and spent time in or around even fewer. We made a point of visiting some of the most famous buildings. The Torre del Oro at night is a splendid sight from a distance. Up close, we discovered that local youth seem to favor it as a party spot and gather nearby - singing, drinking and laughing.

The Plaza de España is grand as well. It stretches further from side to side than any other monument in the city. The sheer size and quality of craftsmanship represented inspires awe and respect for the designers of such a monument. It would take many visits to fully appreciate it’s grandeur but we only spent about an hour before moving on.

The Alcázar of Seville and gardens are another interesting experience. We rushed through in a little over and hour and still didn’t see very much of it. When I paid 7 Euros to go in I thought the money was wasted. I’ve seen many historic buildings before and the entrance of this one wasn’t anything special - A few crenelations and a few trees are not exactly awe-inspiring. We could have stayed outside the walls and seen that much.

Beyond the initial courtyard an altogether different world awaited…